Wednesday, June 15, 2011

Making Hills

Since I sold all my wargaming stuff a few years ago, I am starting from scratch.  I decided to take a short break from painting and make a couple of hills using techniques stolen from other blogs.

The hills probably need to be taller and larger.  They are made from 1" foam.  I cut a hardboard base, then hotglued pine bark along one side to make cliffs.  I then cut out foam to the basic shape of the base minus the area where I put the bark.  I glued the foam to the hardboard, and after it dried used a foamcutter to cut an angle along the edge of the hill.

The foamcutter is a new one I recently bought at Hobby Lobby.  It has a straight wire about 5" long that gets hot.  Its nice, you can sculpt with it.  It does cool off a bit making long cuts, but it keeps cutting but a bit slower.

After that was done, I used some little pieces of foam and spackle to fill in the gaps between the pine bark and the foam.  I then used a technique that a local game store owner told me about.  I covered the entire thing with latex tile mastic.  You get a cheap brush, because the brush ain't comin' back from this mission, and load it with water.  Swirl it in the mastic to make it a bit more liquid and then just paint it on the whole thing.  It seals up the foam and makes it easier to paint, and it gives a nice skin to the foam that makes it a bit tougher.  The brushes I got were 99 cents each, and the one I used was completely trashed when I finished.

After that dried, which takes about a day, I glued on a bit of railroad ballast around the top and bottom of the cliff.  I had bought 2 quarts of paint, one darker brown, one lighter brown, from the local hardward store.  I painted the darker color all over the foam and the area where the ballast was, using a 1" brush.  (a better brush than before, this one I will reuse)  Then I painted the bark a very dark gray. 

After that dried I took the lighter brown color (really a light tan) and dry brushed the whole thing, including the rocks.  I then used a little bit of white and light yellow to drybrush all over everything.

The final step was to put some flocking on parts of the hill.  I used to have hills that looked like green lawns.  I have decided I like a more mottled look.

The results are below.  I will probably put some kind of final coat on to fix everything, but its basically done.


3 comments:

  1. I like the hills. Very similar to what I would do as well. And Hobby Lobby supplies 90% of my stuff for this grand hobby.

    Of all the stuff I have, a decent set of hills is the one thing I am lacking. Its on my list, but so is a whole bunch of other stuff.

    Keep the blog going. Looks great.

    Enable followers so I can join up.

    ReplyDelete
  2. The fake Patek Philippe nearly 50mm-wide case (very wearable), however, is produced from lightweight strengthened and DLC-coated (for fake Patek Philippe color and scratch resistance) titanium. The dark color of the case, along with the yellow/cream color of the hour markers, fake Panerai is attractive. I would, however, have liked for Casio to attempt to match the hands of the watch with the hour markers and fake Tag Heuer luminant color. The hands are actually in a special carbon material that is very lightweight, so it is fake Audemars Piguet possible that there were technical issues that prevented them from being specially colored for this fake IWC limited edition. The watch dial also contains the Chinese character for “dragon,” which fake IWC was Bruce Lee’s nickname.

    ReplyDelete